Motorbiking around the Ha Giang Loop in Vietnam: Busting common myths and a review of Flipside Adventures
Following the death of Orla Wates earlier this year, concerns have been raised about the safety of the Ha Giang Loop in Vietnam, especially for tourists, writes Travel News Blitz’s Chloe Willis.
As such, it is important to understand both the realities of undertaking the loop, as well as where media speculation and exaggeration can take concerns too far.
Myth one: It is dangerous
The perception of the loop as being dangerous has become arguably the most common trope.
While the definition of ‘road’ was put into question in some sections of the journey, including steep dirt tracks, rocky passes and cliff drops, the majority of the loop was not what I expected.
For large stretches of time, our bikes rode in organised lines along what I would describe as ‘major roads’, with safety barriers and enough space to allow trucks to pass one another.
However, with the bumps and off road elements, unless you were an experienced rider, I would not recommend choosing to take on the loop solo.
Inexperienced riders overestimate their ability
In reality, the danger does not come from the terrain itself, but from inexperienced riders overestimating their abilities and underestimating the difficulty of the journey.
Myself and my friend Alice opted to be passengers on the back of bikes, driven around by ‘easy riders’, whose experience immediately made us feel at ease.
The selection of the tour company you go with is the most important decision you will make regarding the Ha Giang Loop.
Following weeks of research, we decided to book with Flipside Adventures.
Safety should be at the heart of tour group selection
Known for their sustainable approach, as well as giving back to the community, we opted for the four day tour to fully immerse ourselves in the experience.
Their emphasis on safety was clear from the beginning, with a thorough briefing on the motorbikes themselves, as well as proper safety equipment.
Flipside was the only tour group that used proper helmets, rather than the small scooter style ones we were soon to see others wearing.
While other tour groups overtook on blind bends and sped away at ridiculous speeds, our drivers maintained their lines and adapted to the varying terrain in a safe and steady manner.
So, while the terrain can be difficult, the dangers of the loop can be minimised with the decisions you make, being a passenger with a reputable tour company like Flipside Adventures.
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Myth two: It is dirty
Before undertaking the loop, we had heard stories of homestays and rest stops that make your stomach curdle.
But arriving at Flipside Adventures HQ, there was an element of confusion around the beautiful hostel we found ourselves in.
A swimming pool was lit up by hanging lanterns, and the previous group sat around on beanbags chatting and laughing, drinks in hand from the onsite bar.
While the other homestays on the loop itself were a bit more ‘rough and ready’, the authentic rustic nature of them only added to the experience.
All the accommodation we stayed in was not only clean and comfortable, but had a warm and welcoming atmosphere that made you feel right at home.
Our homestay on the second night was particularly memorable, with incredible mountain views stretching out beyond the windows of our room.
This is again a testament to Flipside Adventures and making the right decisions around tour companies, with rest and rejuvenation being key following six to eight hours on a motorbike.
Toilets with a view
The rest stops, however, did not always meet this standard.
We had some memorable toilet stops, with ceramic holes in the ground encased in shack like outhouse buildings and no toilet paper.
Hand sanitiser and tissues are a must on your packing list.
While this felt more aligned with the images I had in mind, it only reinforces the sense of adventure that is inherent to the Ha Giang Loop.
The view from the toilet, however, often made up for the interior, with wide stretches of rice fields, mountains and rivers reaching towards the horizon.
If you are not prepared to get down and dirty, and understand that the remote nature of the trip brings some drawbacks, then the loop really is not for you.
Insider knowledge to combat the mud
The terrain itself can also get quite dirty.
With dramatic changes in weather, including extreme downpours, fog and bright sunshine, all within an hour, the tracks can get quite cut up.
My trainers, which were originally grey, ended up an odd shade of brown, and the bottom half of my leggings were also caked in mud.
We were lucky enough to make friends with some Canadians who were on the third night of their tour, who gave us some insider tips to combat this.
We rented additional waterproofs, which proved essential on the last day, where the heavens well and truly opened.
Plastic boot covers also helped to shield our trainers from much of the weather, and meant that I did not spend four days with wet feet, which would have impacted my enjoyment.
So, while the loop is not as dirty as some might make out, coming prepared and knowing what to expect means you can make the most of your journey.
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Myth three: It will change your life
On night one of the trip, everyone in the previous group kept saying exactly the same thing.
This trip will change your life.
Alice and I smiled at each other with a slight raise of the eyebrows, as if to say surely a four day motorbike trip is not going to change my life.
Our eyebrows were soon raised, however, but in a very different way.
As soon as we found ourselves in the heart of the countryside, with clear views of winding roads, rice fields paving mountainsides, and clouds sweeping low across treetops, our mouths were open in awe.
It makes you feel truly alive
I have travelled quite extensively, with a soft spot for mountains and lakes, so I have seen a few, including the Canadian Rockies and the Swiss Alps.
But nothing came close to this.
I have thought about it extensively, and I cannot put my finger on what it is that makes the Ha Giang Loop quite so special.
The closest I can come to answering that question is the sense of freedom.
While trucks and motorbikes pass by your side, villages and water buffalo rushing past, you feel as if it is just you and the mountains.
The steady beat of adrenaline, as your hands cling onto metal and the wind brushes past your face, brings a more overwhelming feeling of being truly alive.
Some tears might be shed
When it is over, there is a very high chance that you will cry.
It was not until I got home, to Dorset, that I realised how changed I felt.
While I continued my travels around Vietnam, I felt firmly that the notion that the Ha Giang Loop could change your life was a myth.
But now, I am not so sure.
What I do know for sure is this trip will stay with me for the rest of my life.
It may also spoil every other view I lay my eyes on!
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